2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro

By Trevor Hedge
Images by Damien Ashenhurst and Trev


2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro saw over 80 riders head on an adventure taking them from the banks of the Murray River at Mildura in north-western Victoria, through to the inland heart of Australia, Alice Springs, in what is the 25th year of GS Safari.

The route chosen was a balance between the most intrepid and the most inspiring. As this is the more challenging of the two GS Safari events held each year, thus the ‘Enduro’ suffix added to the GS Safari moniker, this is certainly no walk in the park for most participants. The regular GS Safari takes almost 200 riders but Safari Enduro gets a bit more extreme thus numbers are generally less than half that of the more mainstream option.

In preparation for some of the sand riding and trials ahead, many riders also signed up for the BMW GS Off-Road Training Course that was staged in Mildura across the immediate two-days prior to Safari getting underway.

BMW RGS Rallye GSsafari
Travelling in style – My mount for the trip, a brand new BMW R 1250 GS Rallye X

Dinner on the opening night was a chance for riders to reconnect with other participants they’d met on previous GS Safari adventures. For many these Safari events are simply a must-do every year, and plenty have a dozen or more GS Safaris under their belt.

Some riders are on their GS all the time, others are lucky to get out once every couple of months due to various family commitments or work pressures. Some are doctors, some are tradies, others head up large companies and between riding stints on Safari are on the phone back to the office co-ordinating bids for government contracts.

BMW GS Safari Enduro RGS Witjira National Park
BMW R 1250 GS Rallye X

Some are obviously quite well off, while others are still paying off their motorcycle and their attendance at GS Safari Enduro is very much a treat they have to strive quite hard to be able to afford.

Some are travelling on their own, some are with a group of friends or work-mates. Out on the trail though, everyone is equal, everyone chips in and generally egos and competitive machismo are largely kept in check.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Arkaroola Climb
Always somebody around to lend a hand when the going gets tough

It is somewhat of a team effort as there is always someone ready to chip in and help to fix a puncture, help you pick your bike up, or give you a shove from behind to assist getting up a snotty incline. All that help is given without any snide remarks or put-downs and this helps ensure that no matter what, a positive vibe pervades, and people remain energised. Even when the going gets a little tough.


GS Safari Enduro Day One
Mildura to Peterborough – 475 km

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day
2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro Day One
Mildura to Peterborough – 475 km

It was a brisk morning when we sporadically filed out of Mildura. To help spread the 80-odd riders out there was a sixty-minute departure window, so riders could leave at various times rather than en masse. This is not a ride where people follow nose to tail, you can often ride for half an hour or more without seeing another rider.

BMW GS Safari Enduro South Australia Borders
South Australian border

After crossing the Murray and Darling Rivers, we turned northwards and headed for the Danggali Conservation Park and Wilderness Protection Area, Australia’s first UN recognised Biosphere Reserve.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Ddangalli
Danggali Conservation Park and Wilderness Protection Area

The landscape switches back and forth between Mallee wilderness to arid wetlands, and at the time we passed through Chowilla Track it was looking very arid indeed.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day
2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro

In fact, many sections of the track were much sandier than they had been only a few weeks earlier when the recce for the route was ridden by organisers. The sand led to somewhat of a baptism of fire for plenty of riders.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day Onboard Crash
Trev helped four riders pick up their bikes in the sand on day one

We were already getting into the proper outback on our basically all-dirt route via tracks generally less travelled, in fact, until we met up with our makeshift fuel stop I had not seen another soul outside of our own group all day.  The fuel drop was required as only GS Adventures would have the 400+ km fuel range to make it through to camp safely, the rest of us had our steeds replenished with ten-litres each poured from jerry cans.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Fuel Stop
Fuel stop on day one

The remainder of the day was on wide and quite reasonable tracks, but they still had the odd patch of bull-dust to keep you on your toes.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day Dust
Bulldust was an omnipresent threat throughout the event

Our stop for the night was the Peterborough Caravan Park. Peterborough itself is a traditional old-style Australian country town. With a quite charming main street lined by pubs and buildings with balconies. The Indian Pacific train no longer stops in Peterborough so the lifeblood of the town these days relies primarily on grey nomad tourism.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Camp
Camp at Peterborough

Tents and swags were unpacked before tales were told around the campfire while the local RSL served up dinner out of a makeshift canteen erected in the grounds.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Camp
Camp at Peterborough

GS Safari Enduro Day Two
Peterborough to Arkaroola – 459 km

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day
2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro Day Two
Peterborough to Arkaroola – 459 km

Riders woke up to another brisk morning as the smell of bacon and eggs prevaded the air as again the men and women from the local RSL prepared breakfast. Coffee was served for those that require caffeine to function of a morning, while camp was packed up ahead of another big day on the bikes.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day Onboard Crash Pickup Bulldust
Bulldust patches always require care. I stopped to help this fella get up and going again.

Heading out past Black Rock Conservation Area we then traversed a series of twisty tracks that criss-crossed private land holdings. It felt like I opened and shut about fifty gates, which turned out to be good stretching practice as I swung a leg over the R 1250 GS Rallye X each time.

BMW RGS Rallye GSsafari
The BMW R 1250 GS Rallye X just out of Hawker

Lunch and fuel was at Hawker, a town with a permanent residence of around 350, but frequented by many travellers as they make their way up into the Flinders Ranges.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day Onboard
There was even a rare patch of green growth early on day two

The terrain heading in and out of Hawker is rugged and rocky, but remarkably this 140-year-old town is only just over an hour from where the Indian Ocean juts into the warm embrace of Spencer Gulf.

BMW RGS Rallye GSsafari
Just out of Hawker looking back at the western flank of the Flinders Ranges

Heading north after lunch saw us bomb along a quite enjoyable few kilometres of winding bitumen. ESA into Dynamic and ride mode ‘Sport’, but a little restraint required not to make short work of the rear Metzeler Karoo III hoop.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day
A rare bit of tarmac was in good condition and offered a few curves that would have been easy to burn up too much Karoo on

Still it was nice for a moment to flow along a lovely bit of tarmac with the edge of the Flinders Ranges a stunning backdrop to our west.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Flinders
2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro

We passed Wilpena Pound but instead of heading towards Blinman we turned west on to tracks that led us to Wirrealpa Rd.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Hills
2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro

This was easy enough going but then later in the day we deviated in to Nantawarrina Aboriginal territory. These were some tight and at times quite technical trails before joining the main tracks towards Arkaroola.

BMW RGS Rallye GSsafari
Nantawarrina Aboriginal territory

The terrain through Nantawarrina would be truly something incredible to behold after any major rains. The downside would be though that the tracks would also become incredibly difficult and in any truly major downpours would be impassable.

There were a few spots along here though where I wouldn’t have minded being stranded, as long as I had a swag on the back, a bit of tucker and a cask of chateau de cardboard, I would have been well set.  In some of my earlier adventures throughout Western Australia I have been known to blow up the empty wine bladder from the cask and used it as a pillow of an evening! #multitasking #class

Instead we were set for proper beds at Arkaroola, a modern oasis suddenly appeared in the desert complete with a large bar….well all but one of us anyway…

BMW GS Safari Enduro Peterborough Beer
A well stocked bar in the middle of nowhere – Arkaroola

One poor fella had suffered a broken ankle, along with a few other injuries in an afternoon crash and was being prepared for a medical evacuation. Royal Flying Doctor Service is your only hope of getting to a hospital out here, and even then it can take 12-24 hours for them to get to you…


GS Safari Enduro Day Three
Arkaroola Loop – 122 km

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day
2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro Day Three
Arkaroola Loop Day – 122 km

GS Safari Enduro riders had the option of either using this as a rest day, or heading out to explore some tracks in the Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges. It was nice not to have break camp at the crack of dawn.

How were the the rivulets and landscape around Arkaroola created..? Well according to Adnyamathanha dreamtime stories, a mythical giant creature named Arkaroo drank the nearby Lake Frome dry before then proceeding to climb up into the mountains before then pissing it all out, thereby creating Arkaroola Creek…. Don’t know exactly what herbs were growing in the area when that was dreamed up…

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Arkaroola Rain
There were threats of rain that never really eventuated

The area was first settled by Europeans as a mining area in 1860 before major drought saw the settlers pull up stumps in 1863. It was not until the early 1900s that white settlement started again and the catalyst for that happening was the discovery of rich deposits of rubies and sapphires. Uranium was then discovered in the area by Douglas Mawson, a great man more well known for his exploits in Antarctica than in the outback.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Bulldust
Bulldust holes can appear anywhere in an instant and it pays to be alert

Uranium was almost the death of the Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary that had been developed in the area by geologist Reg Sprigg in 1968. Sprigg had purchased a 610 square-kilometre lease on the land but it was not until 2011 that this area was well and truly protected from mining. The South Australian government enacted special purpose legislation prohibiting mining, mining exploration and grazing amidst the Arkaroola ranges. The South Australian populace had been up in arms after a mining company had dumped radioactive waste in the region after exploratory drilling which forced the government to act.

While the miners are not welcome, motorcyclists and four-wheel-drive enthusiasts certainly are and Arkaroola has a network of tracks that can test just about anyone’s mettle.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day
Some of the Arkaroola Tracks tested your mettle

There were a few riders that wished they had taken the option of sitting the day out as the dry conditions caused some of the planned routes to be quite a bit more treacherous than expected. There were also countless punctures from the sharp and jagged rocks.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Puncture
This shot was from an earlier day but was a countless example of punctures that required fixing over the course of the week

Still, as a testament to the communal effort, everyone survived the day to work up a hearty thirst for the nights BBQ dinner.


GS Safari Enduro Day Four
Arkaroola to William Creek – 450km

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day
2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro Day Four
Arkaroola to William Creek – 450km

A generous breakfast from the Arkaroola Village kitchen had the riders well prepared for two options, a testing back exit from Arkaroola, or a run back out from Arkaroola the way we had come in.

Bravely, most riders plumped for the harder option, they had come to to put the ‘Enduro’ in GS Safari after all and despite the difficulty, many were really relishing the challenge and enjoying putting themselves and their machines to the test. I mean what better time to do it? On Safari you have medical and technical back-up, along with 80 or so helpers should you get in way too deep.

Thus some were more tired than others as we rolled into Copley for a pie and some fuel before what was perhaps the only real mundane part of the experience over the first few days.  A 100km or so of bitumen took us into Marree and the terrain was starting to become flatter as we progressed and left the ranges in the dust behind us.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Oodnadatta Track Sign
2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro – William Creek

We then joined the Oodnadatta Track for an easy roll into William Creek for the night.

Accomodation here was primarily in shared dongers and the William Creek Hotel was hit hard by all and sundry.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo William Creek Hotel
William Creek Hotel

The biggest lamb shanks I have ever seen were served up for dinner and were washed down with many a beer.

BMW GS Safari Enduro William Creek Lamb Shanks
Lamb shanks at the William Creek Hotel

Everyone was in good spirits and I heard there might have been a few middle aged men that stripped off a few clothes and danced on the bar! Allegedly!

When it came for closing time more than a few of the GS Safari boys were not done. A hat was passed around to come up with enough cash to talk the two ladies behind the bar in to working late. The figure rasied was, allegedly, over $500….  But what happens in the bush stays in the bush….Sometimes…. My silence can be bought…. LOL


GS Safari Enduro Day Five
William Creek to Mount Dare – 460 km

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day
2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro Day Five
William Creek to Mount Dare – 460 km

The next morning we worked our way north on the Oodnadatta Track towards, funnily enough, Oodnadatta…

GS Safari Enduro Day William Creek Sunrise
2019 GS Safari Enduro – Day 5 – Sunrise

I have done this track a few times and mostly it has been really easy going, two-wheel drive car type easy going, but it was in a shitful state the day we traversed it. 

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Oodnadatta Track
Oodnadatta Track was in the worst state I have seen it in and this image shows one of the better sections north of William Creek. In some parts it was very messy

Loose gravel sections everywhere ,with mounds pushed up either side of wheel tracks, turned what would normally have been a relaxing cruise, into something that could go pear shaped awful quickly from any momentary lapse of attention.  One rim got squashed so badly from a rock impact it was beyond repair and had to be replaced by the support crew.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Coward Springs
Some of the boys detoured off the Oodnadatta Track into Coward Springs for a dip!

Not far out of Oodnadatta we turned right on Mount Dare Road. This was a proper flat and barren landscape like something out of a movie set on Mars. I say Mars as that is known as the red planet and this terrain had pretty much every shade of red known to man.

BMW GS Safari Enduro RGS Witjira National Park
Witjira National Park offers a pretty stark landscape

All except for one spring fed oasis that appeared like a a hallucination as it had been so long since we had seen any body of water. This beautiful spot appeared in what felt like the middle of nowhere thus I had to stop for a photo, gee the flies were friendly!

BMW GS Safari Enduro BMW RGS Rallye X Eringa Waterhole Witjira
Eringa Waterhole

This is known as Eringa Waterhole in the outback area known as Marla. It was originally part of Eringa Station which was established in the 1870s before being purchased by Sidney Kidman in 1899. Station buildings are now derelict and the land is now part of the greater Hamilton Station.

Others that passed through when we did said they had never seen the waterhole that dry, and that it normally stretches right out to the dip in the road we traversed through Witjira National Park on our way to Mount Dare for the night.

BMW GS Safari Enduro BMW RGS Rallye X Eringa Waterhole
Eringa Waterhole

It was a truly magical contrast after miles and miles of largely nothing to have this amazing gum tree lined waterhole appear out of the dust.

We then continued on through a few sandy sections before arriving at Mount Dare where we made camp for the night. Mount Dare consists of a pub on the edge of the Simpson Desert with a couple of fuel bowsers, and that’s about it…

Sounds like a recipe for a good time, although this fella at the bar was quite rude and demanding at times.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Mount Dare Dog
This fella was so vocal at the bar I am surprised he didn’t get barred… His good looks must have saved him..

It was an earlier one for most as we crawled into our respective swags or tents for the night.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Mount Dare Swag
My set-up for the night at Mount Dare

One fella though had a pretty big off before Mount Dare. His Shoei Hornet helmet clearly saved his life. His head had visible marks all across one side where the patterns from the padding inside the helmet had compressed and spread the impact load right across the side of his head. I have never seen anything like it. Come morning those marks were purple lines of bruising. The accompanying GS Safari medics checked him over and gave him the all clear. He liked his Shoei Hornet before, but is now a sworn Shoei customer for life.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Shoei Adventure Helmet Impact
Shoei Hornet Adventure helmet copped a hiding but despite the bruised marks to his head this fella had a lucky escape – Safari technicians got his bike rideable again but post event his machine was deemed a write-off by the insurance company

GS Safari Enduro Day Six
Mount Dare to Alice Springs – 577 km

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day
2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro Day Six
Mount Dare to Alice Springs – 577 km

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Windmill
Leaving Mount Dare behind we headed for Finke

Day six was always going to be a litmus test for some, those that were brave enough to attempt the Finke access track after lunch were in for a real challenge.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Mount Dare Sand Drop
The road out of Mount Dare towards Finke threw up quite a few challenging sections

But it turned out that everyone was going to have to negotiate some long and soft sand sections, complete with some testing sand drifts, as Abminga Road presented much more of a challenge than expected even before we got to Finke.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Mount Dare
Mount Dare to Finke

There were plenty of falls but no injuries and everyone rolled into Finke in good shape. I was in early so was lucky enough to get some of the last litres of fuel from the Finke Service Station tanks before they ran dry….

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Finke Sign copy
A somewhat fitting take on outback art is the Finke sign

Those on the big tank Adventure models would be okay from here but anyone on a regular GS was going to need fuel. Fuel bladders were emptied and nearly all the remaining gerry cans from the support vehicles were drained to give everyone enough fuel to make it to the next stop.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Finke Locals
Some of the locals at Finke

From here everyone had a decision to make. Take the easier option, which still had enough hazards to keep you on your toes, or attempt the infamous Finke Track. Around a quarter of the riders decided to take the hard option.

I was in two minds at this point. I honestly had hardly really raised a sweat all week, had not come close to falling off, and had picked up many fallen riders through the sand sections that I had sailed through.

GS Safari Enduro Day Finke Access Track
2019 GS Safari Enduro – Day 6 – Getting ready to take on the Finke Access Track

But there is sand, and then there is ‘sand’… Would the track be in good shape, or would it be chopped up and really, really soft?  I was ready to take the simpler option, to be on the safe side, but a few riders that had ridden with me during the week boosted me up enough to take on the challenge. I should have taken the easier option.

Only a few kilometres into the track the sand was diabolical. The fact that it was deep was okay, sort of, the real problem was how chopped up and messy it was.  To ride sand like this you have to be on the pipe, so to speak. Weight back and power on as the bike pretty much wriggles all over the place and follows whatever is the course of least resistance.

Now on a 120 kg enduro bike that is fair enough, but it does take some proper confidence and balls to hold it on when 240 kg of GS is threatening to batter you into the sand every few seconds. It also takes fitness, and 15km in I was done. I hadn’t crashed, but I was going to, and thus I thought it best to pull out and ride the 15km back out, rather than end up being evacuated by chopper or support vehicle. There was another 180km of that track to go, in what could have been the same, or perhaps even worse conditions.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Finke RGS Rallye X
2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro

I pulled up and spoke to the chase four-wheel-drive and the decision was made that we would try and ride the bike back out and let those up ahead know that I was going back out and switching to Option B. We had not stopped long before a lead rider came back, and then another lead rider came back. It turned out that in fact more than half of the group were in real trouble a few kilometres further on. The decision to abandon the attempt was made. But we still had to get back out the way we came, which was quite a challenge in itself. The track now even more chopped up than it had been when we went in.

We regrouped back at Finke and then headed out on a long gravel track towards Kulgera Roadhouse. Here we refuelled the bike and ourselves. A few riders had suffered punctures on the run out from Finke, and more yet then suffered punctures on the final highway run up to Alice Springs.

Puncture Repair Safari
Puncture repairs on the track were a regular occurrence throughout safari

There is no reliable measure of how many puncture repairs were made during the week but we are talking triple digits.

The guys in the support truck, primarily Stu Tait, had completed 148 tyre changes throughout the trip. When on the clock he got it down to under four-minutes! 

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Tyres
Participants burned up plenty of rubber

The wind-up dinner in Alice Springs was a celebratory affair tinged with a note of sadness that it was all over. Most were flying out from here, their bikes being transported back to their chosen port of origin, but many still had to ride 2000 kilometres or more to get home.

Among them was the fella that had smacked his head real hard on day five. His helmet looked reasonably okay, externally, but it had clearly done its job and would have had no more compression inside left to give. He still had a few thousand kilometre ride home to do and I could not, in good conscience, let him ride that distance in a helmet that was no longer fit for purpose, so handed him my own Shoei to make his way home in. My good deed done for the day, but so many on Safari had done plenty of favours for others. It was just another gesture in the spirit of the event.

BMW GS Safari Enduro GGS Nick Mount Dare
Nick arriving into the Mount Dare camp-site on the penultimate evening of GS Safari Enduro 2019

Another rider also taking the long way home was relatively new to motorcycling and had just completed GS Safari Enduro on a G 310 GS! Read Nick’s story here, it is a cracker!

BMW GS Safari Enduro Shaun Terblanche GS Trophy Team Aus
BMW Australia’s Team Representatives for International GS Trophy 2020 joined GS Safari Enduro as a team building exercise – Tysen Haley (left of picture), Wes and Shaun

Only a fairly recent convert to GS riding, after riding motocross as a junior and then turning his hand at enduro, 25-year-old Tysen Haley was the youngest on Safari.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Damo Ruins Safari
Some happy GS Safari Enduro riders

At the other end of the scale was 66-year-old Paul Malcolm. However, most riders were closer to Paul in age than Tysen, as the average across all participants was 56. An old man’s game then? Certainly not, it is just that until people get to that age it can be a struggle to come up with the disposable money to buy a late model adventure bike, and also be able to find the time off from work and away from their family.

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day Onboard Passing GS
2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro

All in all it was a great experience, on a great motorcycle, in great company and with a great support team backing us up.  Of course you could do this kind of trip on an old XT Yamaha or the like, camping all the way and also having a great time. But there really is nothing like taking on this type of trek on a big adventure bike like the GS. 

BMW RGS Rallye GSsafari
Dynamic ESA in its latest generation is a revelation and set-up is available on the fly at the push of a button #luxury

Especially when on the straight bits you can set the ESA to its plushest mode and just roll on in relative comfort. That’s sort of important now that I am not as young as what I was when exploring the Pilbara on an old XT more than 25 years ago. 

BMW GS Safari Enduro Day
The sun sets on the 2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro
Nick Dudley Ward BMW G GS Safari Enduro

Relatively new rider tackles BMW GS Safari Enduro on G 310 GS

BMW GS Safari Enduro Rider Interview 50-year old Nick Ward had always dreamt of riding to Alice Springs, now he's done it..After starting out on a...
BMW GS Safari Enduro Shaun Terblanche GS Safari Enduro WrittenSand

2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro with Shaun Terblanche

2019 BMW GS Safari Enduro Mildura to Alice Springs via Arkaroola and Finke Shaun Terblanche chronicles the adventureFrom Mildura to Alice Springs via the back tracks...
Trev fords a floodway on a track near Roma Flats in FNQ

Cape to Cape with the R 1200 GS Rallye X | Part 1

Cape York to Wilsons Promontory on the BMW R 1200 GS Rallye X - Part One Read on to Part 2 | Part 3 | Part...

Melbourne to Darwin on BMW K 1600 GT | Part 1

Trev sets off for Darwin ASBK onboard a 2017 BMW K 1600 GT To Part Two | Part Three | Part Four | Part Five | Part SixA...
TT Get Routed Loading Fireblade Ant Dave

A guide to shipping motorcycles from Australia to Europe or NZ

Get Routed Motorcycle shipping from Australia to Europe After last year’s intrepid odyssey around the UK on Triumph Explorers, this time around for 2019 it was...

Ride the Isle of Man TT course with Get Routed

Ride the Isle of Man on your own bike! Get Routed 2020 or 2021 IoM TT experience Stay on and tour Europe!Get Routed offer a range...
IOM Scene

Exploring the Isle of Man | Trev’s TT Trip Part Seven

Exploring the Isle of Man This is the seventh instalment detailing Trev's UK and Isle of Man trip on the new Triumph Explorer 1200 and...
2018 Honda Gold Wing above Lake Eildon

Winging my way home on the new Honda Gold Wing

Trev details his first experiences aboard the new Honda Gold WingI picked up a new top of the range Honda Gold Wing late yesterday...
Riding Around Australia - Mixed conditions for much of the journey

Riding around Australia | VFR1200F Touring | Part 1

Riding around Australia - Touring on the VFR1200F in 2010 - Part 1 By Trevor Hedge Part One |  Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 |...

Coast to Coast | Heavyweight Baggers Comparo Part 1

Harley Road King - Indian Springfield - Triumph Thunderbird LT - Moto Guzzi California Touring across Australia Coast to Coast Heavyweight Baggers Cruiser Comparo by...